We continue to work our way down the eastern coast of Spain. Having departed Valencia last evening, we have sailed the short distance to Cartagena.
Cartagena has been inhabited for over two millennia, being founded around 227 BC by the Carthaginian military leader Hasdrubal as Qart Hadasht, the same name as the original city of Carthage. The city reached its peak under the Roman Empire, when it was known as Carthago Nova (the New Carthage) and Carthago Spartaria, capital of the province of Carthaginensis.
Much of the historical significance of Cartagena stemmed from its coveted defensive port, one of the most important in the western Mediterranean. Cartagena has been the capital of the Spanish Navy's Maritime Department of the Mediterranean since the arrival of the Spanish Bourbons in the 18th century. As far back as the 16th century it was one of the most important naval ports in Spain. It is still an important naval seaport, the main military haven of Spain, and is home to a large naval shipyard.
The confluence of civilizations, its strategic harbor, and the influence of the local mining industry have led to a unique historic, architectural and artistic heritage. This heritage is reflected in a number of landmarks of Cartagena, including the Roman Theatre, an abundance of Phoenician, Roman, Byzantine and Moorish remains, and a plethora of Art Nouveau buildings from the early 20th century. Cartagena is now established as a major cruise ship destination[7] in the Mediterranean and an emerging cultural focus.
As we drive around the city we are traveling along the ancient city wall. Having now seen countless city walls, Cartagena’s appears to be the best preserved. For most of the wall it looks like it was built yesterday.
After a motorcoach/walking tour of the upper city we stop at our first museum, one dedicated to the Second Punic War. A small but well maintained museum, it is very reminiscent of the Parthenon museum in Athens. There is a well excavated and preserved crypt covered by a walkway constructed of glass like at the entrance to the Athens museum.
Our Guide, Maria, decides on a short diversion from the itinerary ... we make a short stop at City Hall. City Hall?!?!? She wants us to see the architecture ... and it was well worth it. It is hard to believe this is a municipal building! You decide ....
Our second museum is the remains of the Roman Amphitheater. Much better preserved than either Rome or Ephesus, the Spaniards are clearly investing greater resources to preserving their heritage. There was little idea that the amphitheater existed until 1998 when the mayor decided to renovate an over grown mound in what was then a seedy part of town. As they began to dig they immediately encountered the columns that flanked the stage. Standing at the base of the excavated stage, it’s difficult to imagine the magnificent structure before you was completely buried and only recently, a little more than 20 years ago, meticulously unearthed and restored.
Next on the tour is a walk down the main avenue and then a return to the ship. We were unexcited with that, we bail and find our way back to the main square. We park ourselves at a comfortable cafe. Cafe con leche and people watch on the square. How more European than that!?!
Finally, a short walk back to the ship and call it a day. A good day.
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